🔗 Share this article All Chef Should Study At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Eatery Secures Fourth on Roll of London’s Top Food Spots. Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. But, tucked near the top among these culinary giants is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of north London. An Unexpected Honour The little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the owners totally shocked. “I’m utterly surprised,” states a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small place earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list. The Charm of Modesty The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner. A Namesake Dish: Tantuni Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality. The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside. It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony. Other Than the Basic Tantuni There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”. For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet profile. Surpassing the Titans Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations. While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price. The Creed of Warmth It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner. “I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.” This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”. A Path of Hard Work In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son. Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication. “My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects. A Achievement for the Culture The restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary honour.